Nairobi in 3 days

The Karen Blixen Museum (at Blixen's actual farmhouse — "I had a farm in Africa, at the foot of the Ngong Hills" — now preserved as when she lived here 1917–1931) in the suburb of Karen (named after Blixen) is the most evocative literary museum in Africa. The colonial-era farmhouse, the veranda where she wrote, the views of the Ngong Hills (where her lover Denys Finch Hatton is buried), and the original furniture and photographs tell the story of Out of Africa better than the 1985 film.

The African Fund for Endangered Wildlife Giraffe Centre (Koitobos Road, Karen) has a raised wooden platform that puts you eye-to-eye with reticulated giraffes (the most endangered giraffe subspecies in East Africa) — you can hand-feed them pellets and, if you choose, receive a giraffe kiss (the 45cm prehensile tongue is extraordinary). The centre has successfully bred and reintroduced numerous animals. One of the most photographed wildlife experiences in Africa.

The Nairobi Maasai Market (held at various locations around the city on different days — most frequently at the Village Market in Gigiri on Fridays and at the Junction Mall in Ngong Road on other days) is the best place in Nairobi to buy authentic Maasai beadwork, Kenyan basket weaving, soapstone carvings and other East African crafts directly from the makers. The colourful glass-bead Maasai jewellery (earrings, necklaces, bracelets) is the finest craft in Kenya.

The Ngong Hills (the 2,460m ridge above Nairobi, 20km from the CBD — the name means "knuckles" in Maasai, from the legend that a giant fell and his knuckles pushed up the hills) are accessible by matatu (shared minibus taxi) or taxi and offer the finest panorama in the Nairobi region: the Rift Valley to the west, the Nairobi plain and city to the east. Denys Finch Hatton's grave is on the ridge. Hire a guard from the Ngong Hills Forest Station for the walk.

Nyama choma (literally "roasted meat" — goat is the classic, cooked over charcoal until the skin is charred and the meat falls off, eaten with the hands with ugali, sukuma wiki (stewed kale) and kachumbari (fresh tomato and onion salsa)) is the most Kenyan of all dining experiences. At a local choma spot in Karen with cold Tusker lager (Kenya's most beloved beer, brewed in Nairobi since 1922) — this is how Nairobi eats.

The Nairobi National Museum (Museum Hill, founded 1910) is the finest natural history and ethnographic museum in East Africa: the Leakey family's fossil collections (including Turkana Boy, the most complete Homo erectus skeleton ever found — over 1.5 million years old), the Joy Adamson gallery (Born Free author's paintings of Kenyan people and wildlife), the Kenya Peoples' Gallery (50+ ethnic groups of Kenya) and the Cradle of Humankind exhibit tracing human evolution in East Africa.

Kazuri Beads (Karen — "kazuri" means "small and beautiful" in Swahili, founded 1975 by Lady Susan Wood to provide income for single mothers) is a fair-trade workshop where 350 Nairobi women handcraft ceramic beads and jewellery. You can watch the entire process from clay to kiln to threading and buy directly from the makers. The ceramic bead jewellery is the most distinctive Kenyan souvenir — and one of the most ethical.

The Sankara Nairobi rooftop pool and terrace (Westlands) gives the finest city view in Nairobi: the modern Nairobi skyline spreading north, the Ngong Hills on the horizon, and the extraordinary quality of East African afternoon light. Non-guests can access the pool with a day pass or order from the rooftop bar.

Blankets & Wine (monthly outdoor music festival at the Nairobi Arboretum or Ngong Racecourse — typically the first Sunday of the month, 2pm–8pm) is Nairobi's finest cultural event: live Kenyan music (Blinky Bill, Amos & Josh, Sauti Sol), blankets spread on the grass, wine, street food and the best cross-section of young Nairobi society. Check dates in advance.

Tamarind (Haile Selassie Avenue, since 1969 — the oldest fine dining restaurant in Nairobi) specializes in Kenyan coastal cuisine from Mombasa: Swahili curries, grilled tilapia from Lake Victoria, Mombasa coconut prawns, and crab from the Indian Ocean. With a bottle of Kenyan wine (Leleshwa winery, from the Naivasha vineyards) or a sundowner gin from Nairobi Distillers (Africa's first craft gin, using local botanicals).