Durban is South Africa's most un-South-African city — a subtropical port with a massive Indian community (the largest Indian population outside of India) that has created a unique hybrid culture: Durban is the home of the bunny chow (a curry served in a hollowed-out loaf of bread), Durban curry (the most complex curry tradition in Africa), and the magnificent Indian Quarter markets. The beachfront Golden Mile and the Ushaka Marine World sit alongside the Victoria Street market, the BAT Centre for arts and the dramatic Valley of 1,000 Hills inland.
Durban's Golden Mile (now officially the South Beach/North Beach area) is the finest urban beach in South Africa — the Indian Ocean is warm year-round (22–27°C), the waves are consistent (good for surfing) and the long arc of white sand with the city skyline behind is beautiful at sunrise. The shark nets make it safe.
The Victoria Street Market (1910, rebuilt 1973) is the heart of Durban's Indian community — 170 stalls selling spices, textiles, traditional medicine, curry powders, incense and crafts. The smell of cumin, turmeric, cardamom and fenugreek is overwhelming. This is the largest traditional market in Africa for the African-Indian trade.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideBunny chow is a loaf of white bread with the inside scooped out and filled with curry (bean, mutton or chicken). Invented in Durban's Indian Quarter in the apartheid era (when Black and Indian workers were banned from restaurants and needed to carry food) — it is now the most iconic food in South Africa. At Goundens (Grey Street, the original style), Orient India (Umbilo Road) or any of the Durban Indian restaurants.
The Juma Masjid (Friday Mosque, 1904) on Grey Street is the largest mosque in the southern hemisphere and one of the largest in Africa — the ornate domes, the rose and cream exterior and the position in the Indian Quarter make it the architectural highlight of Durban's Muslim community (30,000 Indian Muslims in the area).
Durban curry is distinct from all other curries in the world — the 200 years of Indian indentured laborer cooking (from 1860) combined with local ingredients created a style with more heat, more tamarind, more whole spice than either Indian or other South African styles. At Jewel of India or The Raj for the finest Durban curry in the city.
Florida Road (Morningside) is Durban's most concentrated restaurant and bar street — the outdoor terraces are busy on warm evenings. Wilson's Wharf (Point waterfront) has several bars and clubs with harbour views.
The BAT Centre (Bartel Arts Trust) is Durban's most important independent arts space — live music, jazz performances, visual art studios, craft workshops and one of the finest collections of African art objects in KwaZulu-Natal. The building on the Small Craft Harbour is a converted port warehouse.
uShaka Marine World is Africa's largest aquarium (the largest in the southern hemisphere) — 1.3 million litres of sea water in tanks holding 32,000 marine animals including sharks, manta rays and the spectacular open-ocean tank. The beachside water park is adjacent. The aquarium theming uses a fictional shipwreck.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideCato Manor (Mkhumbane) is a historically significant township between the city centre and Durban's western hills — site of the 1949 Durban Riots and the 1959 women's anti-pass law demonstrations. Today it is a vibrant mixed community with the Umgeni Road markets and the finest view of Durban from the ridge top. Township tours available.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideShisa nyama (Zulu for "burn meat" — an informal grill where customers select raw meat from a butcher and it is grilled on an open fire in a party atmosphere with music, beer and dancing) is the most festive way to eat in Durban. Several shisa nyama restaurants in Cato Manor and the townships, or at the Stadium area.
The Small Craft Harbour area and Wilson's Wharf have the most atmospheric night scene in Durban — the harbour lights, the warm Indian Ocean air and the mix of Durban's cosmopolitan population.
The Valley of 1,000 Hills (30 km inland from Durban on the R103 road — the most scenic route) is a series of rolling green hills above the uMngeni River. The landscape is a classic Zulu homeland of traditional rondavels (circular thatched homes), cattle herds and valley mists. The PheZulu Safari Park at the valley edge has Zulu cultural demonstrations.
PheZulu Safari Park has a Zulu cultural village with demonstrations of beadwork, traditional medicine (izinyanga/traditional healer), the Zulu shield and spear, and musical performance. An accessible and respectful presentation of Zulu cultural heritage.
🎫 Book tickets via GetYourGuideThe Shongweni Farmers Market (Saturdays only) near Hillcrest is one of South Africa's finest artisan food markets — locally grown vegetables, craft beers, artisan breads, biltong (dried beef), local cheeses and craft producers from across KwaZulu-Natal.
The Umgeni River Bird Park (on the Berea Ridge above the river) has 800 birds across 200 species in a beautiful aviaries — the most comprehensive bird collection in KwaZulu-Natal. On the return drive from the Valley of 1,000 Hills.
Durban serves Mozambican-style prawns (peri-peri, garlic butter or rissoto sauce) that are among the finest in South Africa — the Mozambican prawn culture came via the large Mozambican migrant community in Durban. At Havana Grill & Wine Bar or Cargo Hold restaurant at uShaka for the finest prawn selection.
A final cocktail with the Indian Ocean view from a hotel rooftop or beachfront bar. The warm Durban evening, the subtropical flowers and the most cosmopolitan city in South Africa.